Doddling in Instructables, need help

[Zambini]

instructables : How to Go Postal : step 2
I tried doing that, but it didn't work. And it came to my attention that the 555 timer IC chip skematics are listed (on wikipedia) in order from bottom left to top left 2,4,5,1,3,7,6,8. But on the instructable's circuit, it goes 1 through 8 sequentially.

I was wondering if because (don't nub hate) I attached it via 1-8 sequentially instead of using the 2,4,5,1,3,7,6,8 setup, is that why it doesn't work? And could that very well be the reason none of my work with a 555 chip works?


So instead of doing the 1-8 setup, I would solder the first wire to the 555 chip from R1 into the actual number 3 spot, labeled "Q" in the Wiki's schematic ?


I know it seems like a simple mistake, but I am un-aware of any unwritten schematic laws and rules.

Also, can a 555 chip "break" (as in, not work anymore), or will they almost always stay in working condition.

[Jokerswild]

IDk about the rest but anything can break.

[Zambini]

Not so much break through force, but if I were to accidentally short two wires or something like that.

[[Dr. V]]

It could definitely be permanently damaged.

Try doing it in the stated order. If that doesn't work for you, grab a new chip!

[Zambini]

Well I tried that with a chip that was donated to me by a MPC member a while ago. Is there any way to test if it is in working condition or not?

[Reloadron]

Originally Posted by Zambini

Well I tried that with a chip that was donated to me by a MPC member a while ago. Is there any way to test if it is in working condition or not?

Other than testing the chip in a regular circuit I don't know of any simple way to check a 555 Timer chip. You can feel the chip in circuit for heat, you can use an ohm meter and measure accross pins 1 (Neg) and pin 8 (pos) and look for a dead short as to resistance. Beyond that you got me.

This is a good link for the 555 chip:

555 Timer/Oscillator Tutorial

This page reflects a few more LED circuits for the 555:

Images 1

However, the second link has errors I just saw for the pin 8 (VCC) connection. However, the visual effects are interesting.

If you need or want a few 555 chips to mess with let me know with a PM and I will send you a few.

Ron

[Zambini]

Those circuits look too complex for me ATM. I need a simpler- one.

Could I use the Wiki one? U think thats nub-proof?

I can just go to Fry's or Radio Shack. They are like 50 cents each or something.

Thanks for the offer though :)



ps: Hey, thats your website!

[Reloadron]

ps: Hey, thats your website!

Yeah, it's one of them. Actually it belongs to Bear (large mixed breed retriever) who lets me use it. I use the web for assorted things, mostly stuff running behind the scenes that visitors never see. There are a few images on it and other stuff. Mostly stuff I link to for this and that. Right now it is desperate need of being cleanned up and rearranged. Just a matter of me making the time to get it fixed.

OK as long as you have access to a Radio Shack or Frys that is cool. If you ever need help with small circuits like that let me know. I will be happy to help ya.

Ron

[Zambini]

ok, for instance,
The one from Wikipedia,


I know that the GND goes to the - battery and the Vcc Goes to the + battery, right?
So does that mean the output and trigger go to the LED's terminals?
And the formula
t = 1.1RC Is easy. Units are :R = Ohms and C = Farads


And where do I get some sort of test board so I don't actually have to solder the stuff together, but can place them securely in some circuit? I know they exist, but I am clueless as to what to look for, could u recommend one? (a brand, model, or somethin)
preferably less than 15 bucks. =/ A starter board thing.

[Reloadron]

Originally Posted by Zambini

ok, for instance,
The one from Wikipedia,


I know that the GND goes to the - battery and the Vcc Goes to the + battery, right?
So does that mean the output and trigger go to the LED's terminals?
And the formula
t = 1.1RC Is easy. Units are :R = Ohms and C = Farads


And where do I get some sort of test board so I don't actually have to solder the stuff together, but can place them securely in some circuit? I know they exist, but I am clueless as to what to look for, could u recommend one? (a brand, model, or somethin)
preferably less than 15 bucks. =/ A starter board thing.

Right pin 1 is common (GND) and pin 8 is Vcc or the positive of the battery (Source).

Yepper for the timing T = 1.1 (R * C) where T = Seconds and R is resistance in Ohms and C is capacatance in Farads.

There is a little more to things, however. The 555 is probably the first timer IC ever developed and still in use today. The 555 can be used in several ways and for what you are looking for you want to use it as an astable multivibrator which if we cut through the bullshit is just a simple clock that free runs producing pulses.

The Wikipedia image is OK but not what you want. In that image the 555 is set up as what we call a "One Shot" meaning we run a trigger in (A Pulse) and we get a pulse out with an on time dependent on R * C in the drawing. Meaning we could for example tap a button switch and get an output pulse of a set duration of for example 1 second. That would be considered a "Monostable Multivibrator" meaning One Stable State requiring a trigger signal to change states for a set duration and return to its mono state.

What you want to blink an LED is an Astable Multivibrator configuration. Also called a free running multivibrator or a clock. The output on pin 3 will toggle between high and low driving a LED (on-off-on-off-on-off) as long as power is applied to the circuit. Now look at this circuit:

http://www.bearblain.com/LED%20Sequencer.gif

I won't link to it because I think it exceeds 1300 Pixels in width and Capper or One 4 would have to kill me.

Just focus on the 555 portion of the schematic. That is a basic clock. Notice how I have Threshold and Trigger tied together at the junction of R2 & C1. That is the whole ball game. Simply put C1 charges through R1 & R2 and when it reaches a certain "Threshold" it is a slam dunk and the chip is triggered. When that happens C1 also discharges and the cycle repeats.

Note: I should not use terms like Ball Game and Slam Dunk considering my ass is in Cleveland.

Anyway, as I mentioned my schematic is slightly hosed as pin 8 should tie to the positive and not to the wiper of R1. (Dumb Ron on that one).

And where do I get some sort of test board so I don't actually have to solder the stuff together, but can place them securely in some circuit? I know they exist, but I am clueless as to what to look for, could u recommend one? (a brand, model, or somethin)
preferably less than 15 bucks. =/ A starter board thing.

I know what you mean. I had some sections of that stuff. I buy the stuff from Allied Electronics and it is called Protoboard. Made by Global Specialaties. Start here:

Allied Electronics - Electronic Components Distribution.

Type in 761-0047 for a search. That is real basic stuff. Then try 761-0010 for a search.

I can send you some of the basic stuff and a few 555 chips as well as a chunk of perfboard if you want. My treat and no charge.

Hope all of this helps and if you need more info just ask. Also, if I explain something too complicated just tell me. We can make things simple!

Ron