My X2 4800+ has high temp jumps at max load help.

[Widjaja]

Okay I have until tomorrow to figure out if my CPU is somehow giving mr incorrect temperatures in core temp before decide to lap the IHS.



I get about 60 deg in core temp at stock settings with my stock cooler in Orthos.

I've reseated both my stock heatsink and my Tuniq Tower 4 times both getting high max loads.

[Craigleberry]

Man that is HOT. I see your concern... bugger

[Widjaja]

Yeah and I need to be at 1.45v to get to 2.610Ghz
1.4 then I get errors after an hour in Orthos.

Can't believe my Tuniq Tower increases the heat of the X1950pro 4 degress if I have the fan speed on low.

I think i'll buy a 120mm for an intake tomorrow as well.

I hope someone has come across this issue.
I just re-read a post of a guy with a Opty 180 and he found his IHS was higher at the edges like my X2 4800+, solved the heat issue by lapping it.
He was getting 66 deg on core 1 but was also at 1.55v at the time.
He also has a X2 4400+ which was high at the center but it didn't give him any heat issue.

Well I don't have a Warranty to void but resale value will go down :(

[Quakindude]

Welcome to the forums!!!!

First thing I would do is clean off the CPU really well using isopropyl alcohol. Then, check out Arctic Silver's web site for correct thermal interface material application instructions.

Once we make sure you've got the TIM properly applied, we can move onto the next thing to look at.

[Widjaja]

Thanks.

I'll hold off on the lapping and first clean the CPU with rubbing alcohol as I haven't used rubbing alcohol before.

I apply the TIM the away arctic suggests for an X2 everytime.

The idle temps sound right in core temp.
core #0-31
core #1-32

Just the max load doesn't sound right.
Thanks for your reply.
If you didn't I would have jumped straight to lapping it as I'm pretty pissed with the high load temps still happening with the new heatsink.

Sure there was a 9-10 degree drop but still it pretty high.

I don't even want to think what I would have in Orthos with the stock heatsink at 1.45 volts.

Will post back once it's all done and gone through a hour of Orthos to see what I get.

[Quakindude]

Make sure you clean off the CPU and the CPU Cooling device.

Does your Tuniq have a switch or knob that allows you to vary the fan speed on the cooler? If so, make sure you have it turned up to high when taking your temp readings. Additionally, your mobo BIOS may have a setting in the BIOS that allows fan speed control. Make sure this is either disabled or set to max. It controls the voltage going to the CPU cooler pin header.

Finally, I always take a baggie, like a plastic sandwich bag, wrap it around one of my fingers and then apply a very small amount of TIM to the IHS on the CPU and the cooler. I then spread this small amount around and massage it into the surface of both components. You just want the slightest haze of TIM on there. This helps fill in the shallow recessed areas common to all heatsink and IHS surfaces. Then, apply the TIM per Arctic Silvers instructions.

Also, while you're in your case, make sure the fans up front of your Antec900, in front of the HDD area, are pulling air in and the fan on the upper backside is sucking air out. The 200mm fan on top of the case should have been set from the factory to pull air out of the case. All fans should cool the case very well when set to medium. I have this same case and it's awesome.

Sorry I didn't write all of this initially. Still trying to wake up.

[fstroupe]

#1-When you clean the CPU and cooler with the alcohol, use a coffee filter. It is the cheapest lint-free cloth you can find...even if you don't drink coffee. After cleaning the surfaces, observe very closely to make sure there is no lint or other trash on the surface.

#2-please make a signature with your system specs. Really just wanted to see what mobo you have, it could be one that commonly shows wrong temps. BIOS flashing to the latest BIOS has corrected that on some mobos.

#3-also, have you tried the temperature utility that came with your motherboard? Though they aren't always correct, they are more likely to be correct than 3rd party software for the purpose, at least in my experience.

So, let's get this straight.

You mentioned that there has been a 9-10C drop in load temp...so you are now experiencing ~50C load temps at stock clock?

What is your ambient room temperature? It makes more difference than you'd think. If your room is 80F or more, your load temp may not be that far out of whack.

Take a look at your CPU when you remove the cooler. I assume that you put a dallop of Arctic Silver on the center of the heat spreader. What does it look like when you remove the cooler? It should be fairly evenly spread out on the center of the CPU, generally round in shape, and covering probably 3/4 of the CPU. It should look rather like a smudge. The base of the cooler should look similar, but with less compound on it. Anything different and yes, you probably have a problem that lapping will take care of.

[Quakindude]

fstroupe...I'd trust CoreTemp waaaaaay before I'd trust any mobo manufacturers temp reading app. But then, I'd trust Nvidia's temp readings before trusting Speedfan these days.

CoreTemp is pretty damn accurate. More so than Nvidia and Asus app's IMHO.

[fstroupe]

Probably so, it has been a long time since I used any third party stuff. You really couldn't trust it then.

I get reasonable temp readings from Abit EQ, and Asus Probe II on this board gives reasonable temps.

[cured]

60* is fine under load.

70* + is worrying