WCing just some pics [56k warning]

[gvblake22]

An original Sonata, Sonota II, or Sonata III?

[owcraftsman]

I lied the Sonata is sold I have a SLK2650-BQE and the lanboy left.
you can see one here
it's a lot like the sonata except for the finish.

[gvblake22]

Originally Posted by owcraftsman

I lied the Sonata is sold I have a SLK2650-BQE and the lanboy left.
you can see one here
it's a lot like the sonata except for the finish.

AAHH, that's a classic!

[owcraftsman]

Components List:

2x Laing DDC-2TPMP 12 VDC Pump
2x Alphacool Laing DDC Clear Acrylic Top
2x Black Ice Pro II Compact High Performance Radiator - Black
Swiftech APOGEE GT Extreme Performance Universal Water-block
I had to order a LG775 backplate and larger 'O' ring to bow it, both are available threw Swiftech. I had an older version that didn't include either. Swiftech has decided to include them now.
EK High Performance Full Coverage Nvidia GeForce 8800 GTS Series Water Block
Swiftech MCW60™ Graphics Card Liquid Cooler with MC14 BGA Ramsinks
Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Water-block
EK-Mosfet 680i - Acetal
EVGA 680i Southbridge (MCP) Fan for EVGA 680I SLI Motherboard - Sleeved
Aprox. 10' Tygon 3603 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Clear Tubing
CM Stacker Bottom Case Shroud - 2 x120
Swiftech MCB-120™ "Radbox" radiator/fan housing Rev 2 - Black
Nylon Fitting Flanged 1/4 NPT Threaded to Straight Barb - 1/2 OD - Black
Koolance Nozzle Pair, G1/4 Barb [13mm, 1/2"]

A couple things here you'll notice I have two different GPU water blocks. The whole idea here for me is to test and see which is better. A couple things I'll give any potential buyers a heads up on #1 Swiftech does not include enough heat sinks to cover all required on my 8800GTS 640's #2 Be sure all is throughly cleaned off before you attempt to apply. You only get one chance and the adhesive is weak at best. Reapplying you'd have to find something I don't know what I'd like to know. Do be careful most adhisive TIM out there is actually epoxy and it's a permanent installation. I read somewhere a guy removed 1/2 a chip right off the PCB trying to remove it. The good news (just in case you cringed like me) he was trying to salvage the HS.
Dayum this is an expensive hobby, not as bad as my last one though I was building RC jet, planes & boats.
Buyer beware of the swifty MCW30 it's universal maybe to much so atleast for me. Placement is poor anchoring too only 2 points to secure leaves it rocking on top of you chipset VERY Dangerous if you like throwing away motherboards and taking chances go for it. On the positive side one thing is for sure there performance is excellent and one of the least restrictive of all NB blocks.
If you do go to tackle a project like this be prepared to visit the hardware store. Many of the components here didn't come with adequate quantities sizes lengths or even corrosion resistance at least to suit me.
One more word of caution be careful on the barbs you buy. I have a combination here I really like the Nylon the best no leaks great fit hose and blocks and plenty of room to mount you clamps they're also the ugliest. In many case they just aren't suitable for example NB SB and PWM blocks that are very shallow to begin with the threads penetrate to deeply (ok kiddies keep your mind out of the gutter) into the blocks and become more of a restriction than is acceptable. In this case my favorite is the Koolance. I've tried EK's and Koolance wins IMHO #1 their is one less thread #2 I like the smooth ample surface where the clamps gets attached.
Okay one more tid bit you may have noticed the filters I used. Any input or supply for the case has a filter. At Lowe's I think ( couldn't find it online) you can buy these Anti-Bacterial Electrostatic filters that you custom cut to your opening. There great because the come layer with three different types of material. I use the activated charcoal filter (black) because it's the thinest of the there included. I placed them where I can get to them easily and it minimizes dust in the case.

Now I've bored you enough go back to your porn now.